Who's on a private supply
Not every home is on a town supply. Thames-Coromandel District Council, for one, says many smaller communities and individual homes on the peninsula have private self-managed water systems, collection tanks or stream supplies.
On a private supply there's no water provider to ring when the taps stop. Everything from the source to your taps is yours, and so is the decision about who to call.
Signs of trouble
- No water at the taps, or the pump runs but nothing comes out.
- The pump keeps switching on and off with every tap closed.
- Pressure that surges and then drops away.
- A pump that's loud, hot to touch or keeps tripping.
- Cloudy, discoloured or smelly water from the tank.
- The tank level falling faster than your use explains.
Before you call
Check the power
Make sure the pump's switch is on and the circuit hasn't tripped at the switchboard.
Check the water level
A pump drawing from an empty or very low tank can't deliver, and running it dry can damage it.
Walk the pipe
Look for wet ground, a split fitting or a running overflow between the tank and the house.
Note what the pump does
Write down whether it runs, hums, cycles or stays silent, and whether the pressure gauge moves. It saves time on the visit.
What a plumber will do
A plumber will check the pump, its pressure switch and any pressure tank, the non-return valve and filters, and the suction line from the tank. From there it's a repair, new controls, or a replacement pump sized for your house and the distance it has to push.
A new or replacement pump also needs wiring, and an electrician does the electrical connection.
Which pipes are which
The roof side isn't drainlaying: the Act's definition of a drain leaves out downpipes carrying water from a roof. The supply side is a different story. Pipes from the tank or bore that feed sanitary fixtures inside your boundary are sanitary plumbing, so an authorised plumber fixes them.
Septic tanks are separate again. Connecting or disconnecting a drain to a sewage tank is drainlaying: see septic tanks.
Rural doesn't mean DIY
The Act lets the Minister designate rural areas where anyone may do sanitary plumbing, and allows a householder exemption in places the Minister decides. The legislation website lists no secondary legislation made under either section, so don't assume a rural property is exempt. PGDB's homeowner list is the safe guide: taps, ball cocks and plugs, and plumbing in a dishwasher or washing machine without touching the pipes.
Consent and the Building Code
Repairing tank plumbing with comparable products, or replacing it in the same position, needs no building consent when an authorised plumber does it. A new tank, a bigger system or a change to how the supply is set up may be different, so check with your council before you buy.
Clause G12 of the Building Code still applies to a private supply: the system has to avoid leaks, give reasonable access to parts likely to need maintenance, and allow it to be isolated for testing and maintenance. If the tank or bore also connects to the mains, read our page on backflow prevention.
What you can look after
You can
- Check the pump's power and the tank level.
- Keep gutters, leaf screens and tank inlets clear.
- Change filter cartridges where the maker says owners can, without disturbing the pipes.
Leave to an authorised tradie
- Repairing or replacing the pump and its pressure controls.
- Any pipe from the tank or bore to the house.
- Connecting a new tank to the existing plumbing.
- The electrical connection of a pump, which is for an electrician.
What we would do
Do the four checks before you call; a tripped switch or an empty tank is a cheap answer. If the pump is cycling with every tap shut, look for a leak before replacing anything, because a new pump won't fix a split pipe. Tell us what the pump is doing and where the property is, and we'll match you with an authorised plumber who knows pumps and tank supplies.